Where To Eat

Certain things in this world of ours do not change: Quality is, always, admired, appreciated and coveted by most, right-minded people. 

The Steak House at The Grand Hyatt Hongkong must rank among the best eateries in the Hongkong Special Administrative Region (HKSAR) of the People’s Republic of China (PRC) if one is a fan of beef, that is. 

TARGET (泰達財經) revisited this fine restaurant on Saturday, May 11, 2013, after an absence of about 18 months – and did not regret the experience that rivaled that of our first visit. 

(Please refer to TARGET Intelligence Report, Volume XIII, Number 183, published on September 28, 2011 .) 

Things have little changed at this restaurant that can seat 110 diners (it is only open in the evenings) on the 2nd floor of the five-star hotel.  

If anything, the situation at The Steak House, over the past 18 months, has improved in terms of what one gets for one’s buck – because the prices of most dishes appear to have been almost unchanged over the years. 

The service is excellent, the prices of the wines on offer are reasonable, and the ambiance has remained conducive to a romantic night out with a loved one. 

On the evening of TARGET’s visit, this was that which was ordered: 

The Weakest Link 

Of all the dishes that were sampled, the Grand Hyatt Salad Bar was the weakest course of the entire meal: It just did not measure up. 

The Smoked Salmon on offer – which was supposed to have been made in-house, one was told – was bland with little discernable flavour and, certainly, it could not have competed with the many imported brands of Scottish Smoked Salmon that one can buy at most comprehensive supermarkets. 

The salads, from beetroot to tomato to coleslaw, were all bland. It appeared that nobody had given much thought to them.  

The Chef de Cuisine had, obviously, not thought of jazzing them up, such as adding a little balsamic vinegar to the beetroot salad or purchasing the very pungent, cherry tomatoes from Holland, which rank among the very best that one can buy in the HKSAR, instead of slicing up large, half-ripe (probably from the PRC) tomatoes. 

As for the New England Clam Chowder, it was as good as it gets, but this reviewer noted that the amount of soup in the bowl – about three quarters of an inch, in fact – was considerably less than one would have expected. 

However, the clams were fresh and sweet; and, the soup was served piping hot. 

As for the main course, the Nebraska Rib Eye, it was perfect in spite of it, being a little undercooked (TARGET had ordered it, being medium, not medium rare). 

US beef, for the discerning carnivore, still ranks as the best that money can buy and it knocks the socks off beef, imported into these 416 square miles, from the antipodes. 

The Nebraska meat melted in one’s mouth and, at the price of $HK650 for two people for 20 ounces, it was money well spent because the amount of beef is far too much for two people. 

With the steak, of course, it was more than one swig of Chateau Talbot, a beautiful wine from the heart of the Saint-Julien Commune of France. 

This Médoc Grand Cru Classé is hard to beat if one desires to drink a wine that just passes smoothly down one’s gullet, its aroma, lingering for a good five minutes after it has disappeared from sight. 

It is a silky, cheeky but balanced wine that tastes a little of wild cherries, with an aftertaste of a mild pepper; and, with tannins that are not too harsh. 

As for the Sweet Potato Fries and the Duck Fat Fries, they were a fitting companion to the steak and the wine. 

The meal ended with a berry trifle – which, actually, was a poor competitor to British trifle – but, nevertheless, it was excellent. 

TARGET’s waiter had warned that one order was more than enough for two people: He was spot on the money. 

The dish comprised oodles of fresh berries, mountains of fresh cream and, of course, sponge cake at the base of the bowl.

What the sponge cake lacked, however, was sherry, having been left to soak into it (some people prefer to use brandy instead of sherry). 

Regardless, it was delicious. 

The Ambiance 

 The Steak House seats about 110 diners on tables that are not too close to one’s neighbour. 

The serving staff is very accommodating and, when, for instance, the soup came too quickly, it disappeared into the kitchen as fast as it came without any hint of a complaint. 

Unfortunately, some of the guests appeared to have left their manners at home, but, in the HKSAR, one has grown accustomed to rubbing shoulders with people whose home education is sadly lacking – especially the nouveau riche from north of the border. 

The music, piped through the restaurant, was too loud and, when this was pointed out to TARGET’s waiter, the volume was quickly reduced. 

To the credit of Management, the entire restaurant, on this medium’s visit, was spotlessly clean – and that included the cleanliness of the facilities where one has to visit over a period of two hours after having overindulged in one’s fancies (food and drink: Nothing else).