The recently opened steakhouse at Grand Hyatt Hongkong has a rather unusual and, in TARGET’s opinion, very stupid modus operandi with regard to reserving and/or admitting prospective patrons.

For the past few months or so, this medium had been trying to book a table for 2 people under an assumed name – without mentioning, of course, that the real reason for the booking of a table at Grand Hyatt Steakhouse was to sample the food for the benefit of the Subscribers of this medium – and, on each and every occasion that TARGET (泰達財經) telephoned the restaurant, the answer came back from the receptionist that all of the tables are completely booked for the next month.

So, sick and tired of this obvious lie, last Friday (September 23, 2011) at about 7:30 pm, the TARGET team arrived at the entrance of the restaurant and, after telling the fib that ‘my secretary has made a booking under the name of Sacklyn’, was shown to a window table, measuring about 2 square feet.

Rejecting this tiny table, outright, TARGET was taken, immediately, to a respectable table, a booth, in fact … and Bob’s your uncle.

So much for this restaurant, being booked, totally, for more than one month.

After feeling comfortable and scanning the menu and the wine list, TARGET ordered the following:

Starter

New England Clam Chowder
$HK130 

6 Oysters (Fines De Claire)
$HK280 

Main Course 

Nebraska USDA Prime Beef
Tenderloin (6 ounces) with Béarnaise sauce
$HK360 

Canadian Angus Beef
Barbecued Short Ribs
$HK280 

Side Order 

Duck Fat Potato Fries
$HK95 

Desserts 

Steakhouse Berry Trifle
$HK95  

Baked Cheesecake
Strawberry Compote
$HK95

To start the proceedings, 2 glasses of Perrier Jouet Grand Brut Champagne at $HK225 per glass were ordered, allowing one to become relaxed and refreshed from the walk to this side of Wanchai, which could be described as something of an ‘island’.

With the above meal, the selected wine for the evening was Château Lynch-Bages, Vintage 2001, from the Pauillac Appellation of the Bordeaux Region of France at $HK2,420. 

This musky flavoured red is classified as one of the 18 Cinquièmes Crus in The Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855.

The Food

The soup and the oysters went down well, especially with the Champagne.

A criticism of the fines de claire was that they did not seem to have that distinctive salty taste of the claires, or marches, in which they were said to have been produced. Also, they were far too small.

It is well known that, of the 130 tonnes of these oysters that are harvested, annually, very few are exported since the French eat them up too quickly.

TARGET questions, therefore, whether or not they were the Real McCoy.

About the New England Clam Chowder, one could not fault it.

This brings one to the meat dishes: It is difficult to believe that they could have been better.

The Nebraska tenderloin was cooked to perfection and the flavour was a joy to one’s palate.

As for the Canadian Angus Beef, Barbecued Short Ribs, they, too, were wonderful and were devoured in their entirety.

As for the duck fat potatoes, they were a bit of a letdown, in this medium’s opinion, since they appeared to have very little discernable flavour. Had they, really, been cooked in duck fat?

The 2 desserts were on a par with the meat dishes, but, sad to relate, this reviewer could not finish either one of them: One’s stomach cannot be stretched too much, you know.

The wine bottle, being empty, this reviewer, having gained a few pounds in a period of a couple of hours, it was time for a cup of cappuccino.

Throughout this meal, TARGET’s waiter was a young gentleman by the name of Jason. He was very efficient and helped to make the evening exceptionally enjoyable.

The Ambiance

The ambiance of this outlet of Grand Hyatt Hongkong is pleasant enough and, unlike some pretentious restaurants in this territory of the People’s Republic of China, the soft furnishings made it easy to have a conversation with one’s partner.

It is the type of environment that would go down well if one wanted to romance a member of the opposite sex and was considering popping the question.

The restaurant seats 110 persons and, aside from the tiny rubbish tables, which are just big enough for the family cat, the tables that were, originally, foisted onto TARGET and were rejected, the rest of the seating arrangement is efficient and comfortable. 

The wine list is small, but adequate for a steak house, however, some of the prices are over the top.

The music is charming – somebody has good taste.

All in all, this is an excellent restaurant for that special night out.

It is unlikely to be close in the next 50 years … unless all of the cows in the world die out.