Where To Eat

Things appear to have changed for the better at Nicholini’s, the fine-dining, food outlet at Conrad Hongkong Hotel (港麗酒店), located at Pacific Place. 

While the dining room appears to be almost completely unchanged from days of yore, the food and its presentation rate much higher than the last time that this medium visited the restaurant. 

At least, that was the situation when this medium, without making a reservation, showed up on the evening of Wednesday, March 11, 2015. 

The last time that TARGET (泰達財經) visited a food outlet at this hotel, some of the desserts had grown unsightly mouldy and, when this was pointed out to a member of the serving staff, a Chinese cook was summoned. 

He apologised for the mould on a small glass of mousse, making a puerile excuse for the fuzzy white, organic growth atop the orange concoction. 

Since the mouldy dessert incident, last Wednesday’s return was the first in more than three years. 

TARGET Makes An Entry  

On the Wednesday of TARGET’s visit to Nicholini’s, it was somewhat reminiscent of the days when Mr Dario Regazzoni was the General Manager of Conrad Hongkong because it was he who determined to launch this food outlet. 

The Restaurant Manager of Nicholini’s today is Mr Emanuele Gorla and, on being informed by the restaurant’s hostess that TARGET’s representatives had, once again, determined to sample the food on offer, Mr Gorla came over and introduced himself, taking the trouble to explain that, on the evening of this medium’s visit, there was a guest chef who would demonstrate his art with regard to the cuisine of the Piedmont Region of Italy. 

Guest chefs! Shades of Mr Dario Regazzoni! 

On studying the menu, this was that which was selected: 

4-Course Set $HK938 each 

Appetizers 頭盤 

Battuta di Fassona
Al Coltello Con Fonduta Di Parmigiano e Verdure Croccanti
Fossona Beef Tartare with Parmesan Fondue and
Crunchy Vegetables皮特蒙生牛肉他他伴巴馬臣芝士醬及香脆蔬菜 

Scaloppa di Foie Gras
Crudo di Seppia e Carciofo, Salsa Alla Maggiorana
Pan-Fried Foie Gras with Raw Cuttlefish. Artichokes and
Marjoram Sauce
香煎鵝肝薄片伴鮮魷魚配朝鮮薊及香草汁 

Risotto and Homemade Pasta
意大利飯及麵 

Riso Mantecato
Con Gli Scampi, Profumo di Mandarino
Scampi and Tangerine Risotto
小龍蝦柑橘燴意大利飯 

Agnolotti Del Plin
Al Sugo D’Arrosto
Homemade Agnolotti Pasta with Gravy
意大利小雲吞配肉汁 

Main Dishes 意大利主菜 

Controfiletto di Manzo
Arrosto Con Asparagi Bianchi, Salsa Olandese e Bordolese
Pan-Seared Beef Sirloin with White Asparagus,
Hollandaise and Bordelaise Sauce
西冷牛扒伴白蘆筍及荷蘭汁 

Carre D’Agnello Arrosto
Con Marmellata di Cipolla di Tropea, Gratin di Bietola, Profumo di Timo
Roasted Back of Lamb with Tropea Onion Jam,
Chard Gratin and Thyme
烤羊鞍配紅洋蔥醬伴焗甜菜 

Astice
Con Piselli, Spugnole e Caviale
Blue Lobster with Green Peas, Morels and Caviar
藍龍蝦伴青豆，羊肚菌及魚子醬 

Desserts 甜品 

Fragola
Yogurt e Meringa
Fresh Strawberry with Yogurt and Meringue
士多啤梨伴乳酪白烤餅 

Tiramisu
Alla Nocciola
Hazelnut Tiramisu
意大利榛子芝士蛋糕 

The Food 

A large part of the food tasted somewhat bland, not so as to be offensive to one’s taste buds, mind you, but having little or no discerning characteristics that one would have expected from quality raw produce from which the food was said to have been created. 

This was especially true of the beef tartare. 

The Risotto Mantecato was rather a poor showing, however, at least the first attempt, that is. It was sent packing because the rice was almost raw whereas it was supposed to have been cooked al dente. 

On the second showing, however, the risotto was fine. It was the first time that this reviewer had eaten this dish that had distinctive, tangerine overtones. 

The blue lobster, which is the favourite of many people who love the sweet, delicate taste of fresh lobster meat, was perfectly cooked, having been quickly dunked in a hot broth and, then, swiftly served lest the meat cool too quickly. 

When the lamb was produced, to a shocked Mr Gorla, no doubt, this reviewer requested mint jelly to accompany the dish. 

On a negative note, had Mr Dario Regazzoni been seated with TARGET, last Wednesday evening, he may have had a fit. 

During the entire 90 minutes that this medium was present at Nicholini’s, not once was the table cleared of droppings of breadcrumbs and what-have-you. 

It appeared that nobody had been trained to clean patrons’ tables, halfway through the meal – or whenever it, obviously, was required so to do. 

Further, a number of the serving staff were standing round the room, chatting and telling jokes to each other, and so, when a guest wanted something, it was required that a high-pitched noise floated through the room in order to attract the attention of somebody. 

For a fine-dining restaurant as Nicholini’s wants to be known, this is just not on.