Where To Eat

Another free-standing, French restaurant has just opened in the Hongkong Special Administrative Region (HKSAR) of the People’s Republic of China (PRC). It is named Épure. 

This 60-seater restaurant is located in the ‘rabbit warren’ of Ocean Centre on the Fourth Level.  

For people, not conversant with this area of Kowloon, Épure may be difficult, at first, to locate, but the hunting, as far as TARGET (泰達財經) was concerned, was well worth the effort. 

TARGET, as is this medium’s practice, had reserved a table for three people under a nom de plume in order to test the waters, so to speak, without anybody, knowing of the presence of food reviewers. 

At precisely 7:30 pm on Friday, August 1, 2014, TARGET’s three reviewers presented themselves to a duo of charming, Chinese ladies who, on confirming the booking, took us to a table, next to a window. 

With soft music, wafting through the dining area, this reviewer started to scan the voluminous wine list only to be interrupted by a young Frenchmen (this was this medium’s opinion of the nationality of this young man on listening to his accent) who asked whether or not he could help in selecting the wine for the evening. 

Dismissing the young Frenchman upon informing him that his services would not be required resulted in his pouting as he strode away. (Ah! Youth!) 

The wines that were chosen from the comprehensive list of French and Italian temptations included: 

The above wines were chosen, following a determination of the evening’s diner: 

le vol-au-vent
Flaky butter puff pastry, seared langoustine and wild small boat fish
light liquorice coulis
酥化千層皮配炙熱小龍蝦、精選時令鮮魚、甘草汁
$HK398 

Champignons de Paris
Paris white mushroom soup, gnocchi and spinach
巴黎白菌湯 配馬鈴薯玉棋 

Duck foie gras, terrine and search, Provence apricot
Pineau des charenes and bergamotte mint gelée
香煎法國鴨肝及凍批 配普羅旺斯黃杏、法國夏朗德甜酒 

Seared gilt-head sea bream, baby purple artichoke
Aubergine caviar and gatinais honey
香煎金頭鯛魚 配迷你紫朝鮮薊、法國加蒂奈蜂蜜
$HK588 

Milk fed veal rack, spring vegetables, natural jus
炙烤乳飼小牛鞍　配時令蔬菜、原味濃汁
$HK628 

Roasted challandais duck ‘Tour d’Argent’
Peach and carrot mousseline
法國沙朗鴨 配水蜜桃、胡蘿蔔慕絲茸
$HK498 

Grand Marnier liquor soufflé and mandarin sorbet
橘香干邑梳乎厘配橘子雪葩
$HK160 

Cheese Platter
$HK120 

(This is the way in which the above dishes were spelt on the menu.) 

The Food 

All of the dishes scored very high points on TARGET’s scale, with the lone exception of the white mushroom soup: It was served lukewarm. 

This was a pity, actually, because the flavour of the broth was excellent, to be sure.  

When the pastry chef did his rounds, this reviewer made mention of the criticism and this Frenchman said that it would not happen again. 

The other two first courses, however, were as good as it gets. 

Special mention should be made of the foie gras since it literally melted in one’s mouth. 

As for the main courses, the veal was absolutely perfect: There was no room for improvement. 

The pink-and-white cubes of veal were a delight to behold; and, the taste was on a par with the presentation of the dish. 

The fish and the duck courses were both mouth-watering examples of culinary excellence. 

That which topped off the wonderful meal was the service staff, all of whom appeared to be on their toes, making certain that whatever was required was made available in a jiffy. 

Even the former, pouting Frenchman was not averse to pouring the wine that TARGET had ordered … without his assistance.

The Ambiance 

Épure is a lovely restaurant and, although it is limited in respect of the number of patrons that it has the ability to accommodate on any single evening, it is almost certain to become a favourite of discriminating diners of Hongkong, those that demand the best. 

According to TARGET’s informant, the restaurant took about 18 months to design and to create the present ambiance of charm and coziness, without undue opulence. 

The cost to create this eatery was a whopping $HK50 million-plus. 

On the evening of this medium’s visit, the chef de cuisine – said to be a Frenchman, also – was not on duty. This seemed strange because one would think that Friday evenings and Saturday evenings would be among the busiest evenings of the week. 

(The French: ‘Oh là là ! J'ai oublié mon portefeuille!) 

On the Friday evening of this medium’s visit, only this scribe was a European, enjoying the food and wine. On all of the other tables, accommodating not more than 10 diners, there were only Asians. 

But that which was very apparent was that few people spoke above a loud whisper. 

If this restaurant can maintain its present high standard, it is guaranteed to be a winner – sooner rather than later.