Where To Eat
... Where Not To Eat
VOLUME XVi No. 68
W E D N E S D A Y
April 9, 2014

Dining and Wining ...
Where To Go ...
Where Not To Go
THE BEST
RESTAURANTS OF HONGKONG ...
AND THE WORST !
Name of Restaurant | Zuma Hongkong | |||
Address of Restaurant | Levels 5 and 6, The Landmark Atrium, No. 15, Queen's Road Central, Hongkong | |||
Date of Visit | Saturday, March 15, 2014 | |||
Category |
TARGETs Rating |
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Service | ||||
First Impression | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |
Attentiveness to Customers’ Needs | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |
Flexibility | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |
Product Expertise of Serving Staff | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |
Speed of Service | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |
Cleanliness of Uniform and Serving Staff | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |
Ambiance | ||||
Lighting | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |
Music | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |
General | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |
Food | ||||
Presentation | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |
Taste | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |
Quantity | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |
Wine | ||||
Choice | Extensive | Limited | Unbalanced | |
Cost | Reasonable | Unreasonable | Expensive | |
Storage of Wine | Good | Poor | Unknown | |
Expertise of Sommelier | Excellent | Acceptable | None | |
Total Cost of Meal | ||||
Very Expensive |
Moderately Expensive | Reasonably Priced | ||
Comments | ||||
Zuma Hongkong could never be considered a traditional Japanese restaurant although it has a number of the traditional dishes that one would expect to find in a high-class, Japanese eatery, catering for the discriminating Asian gourmet who does not like to stray too far from the nest. Unlike the traditional Japanese restaurants, found in the Hongkong Special Administrative Region (HKSAR) of the People’s Republic of China (PRC), where food costs a bomb for very little to eat, with waitresses, dressed in kimonos and talking very delicately as they smile, sweetly, Zuma Hongkong is ‘loud’ and boisterous, marked by or expressive of exuberance and high spirits. The waiters and waitress have, absolutely, no connection, directly or indirectly, with the land of the samurai and, in fact, on 泰達財經’s visit to Zuma Hongkong, there was no suggestion of any of the serving staff, having had any association with anything that was Japanese let alone, having visited the country. The Eastern European hostess, who showed 泰達財經 to the table on which this medium’s three-man team sat for the best part of two hours, was, probably, a fashion model – she was, certainly, sufficiently thin to pass for one, standing about six feet tall in her stocking feet – and the waitresses, rushing hither and thither, giggling as they went, were all from the Philippines, Myanmar (you know, the country that used to be named as Burma), Indonesia, Turkey and a number of other parts of Asia, other, that is, than Japan. The chefs, 泰達財經 (泰達財經) was told, hailed from various parts of the world, Europe and the Antipodes, mainly, but there was a couple of Japanese men, taking care of the sushi counter. This medium visited Zuma Hongkong on Saturday, March 15, at 7.00 p.m., and the first thing that was very noticeable was the din from the diners, some of whom were, obviously, tipsy if not on the verge of feeling under the weather. Due to the lack of much in the way of soft furnishings, sound travels throughout the entire dining area of Zuma Hongkong, bouncing off the granite walls and attacking one’s eardrums, rather violently. But it is all in good fun, for the most part. It was noted that most people, trying to gorge themselves, were extremely well dressed, relative to other HKSAR restaurants where patrons do not take the trouble to dress appropriately, with young ladies, seemingly competing with each other, showing off in their best attires. The Food Having studied the menu, the following is that which was ordered:
Zaru Tofu Soft Shell Crab
Nigiri Sushi
Anago Sushi
Tamago Sushi
Uni Sushi
Arjun’s Toro Temaki Sushi
Crispy Salmon Skin Roll Sushi
Honetsuki ko-hitsuji no hatchou miso fuumi
Yakitori-Negima
Yaki
Kisetsu no yasai tempura
Almond Tofu
Banana Cake
Chawan Mushi With the meal, a bottle of Billecart-Salmon Rosé was ordered at the cost of $HK1,050. Billecart-Salmon is a medium-sized, Champagne house, located in Mareuil-sur-Ay, France. The total cost of the above was $HK3,325 plus 10 percent service charge. One cannot criticise the food at Zuma Hongkong because, by and large, it is very good. The quality of the ingredients is first-class and the presentation of just about all of the dishes was second to none: Some of the dishes reminded one of delicately crafted paintings. Many had a number of the hallmarks of traditional Japanese cuisine, but the appearances were about as far as it went with any dish, originating from the once, proud and honourable Japanese Empire. Due to the fact that, really, Zuma Hongkong makes no pretentions of trying to pass off as the real McCoy, service goes along with the dishes – and this was very noticeable on 泰達財經’s visit. From time to time, one is shocked out of one’s skull as a waiter or waitress drops a metal tray, full of dirty dishes, onto the stone floor, the noise of the mishap, cascading round the room in the manner of a thunder storm. The restaurant was packed to overflowing on this medium’s visit and, due to the fact that the tables are arranged very closely together – obviously to increase patronage – it was understandable that, from time to time, the serving staff, in trying to squeeze past one table to another, accidents are bound to take place. One hilarious incident was when the bottle of Billecart-Salmon Rosé Champagne did, eventually, arrive, about 15 minutes after it had been ordered, the obese waiter, serving 泰達財經’s table, asked: ‘Do you want to use these glasses – pointing to the ordinary water glasses on the table – or would you prefer the long, thin glasses (usually referred to as flutes)?’ One could not be cross with such a question because this poor man was working his fingers to the proverbial bone; and, after all, he was trying his best to perform his assigned tasks as well as he was able. The restaurant can seat between 160 and 180 guests at one sitting and, due to the fact that Zuma Hongkong suffers from what appears to be an insufficient number of serving staff – and, quite obviously, very few trained serving staff – one has to have some empathy for their plight. For most of the evening, during this medium’s visit, this reviewer had to pour his own wine! Conclusion Zuma Hongkong is a beautiful restaurant, of that there can be no argument, but due to its success over the years, Management has determined to sacrifice service in order to increase revenue … as quickly as possible. It is unlikely that pairs of lovers would consider visiting this restaurant more than once because it is difficult for one’s voice to be carried across the table over the constant noises, made by diners at other tables as well as with the clanging of dishes, caused by the untrained serving staff. When romantic intimations to one’s prospective lover are the order of the day, Zuma Hongkong is not the place to try to utter them.
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