Gaddi’s, the premier food outlet at The Peninsula Hotel, located at the ‘entrance’ to Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, has been the most luxurious and most-inviting restaurant since the hotel opened in 1928.

Gaddi’s, actually, opened its doors for the first time in 1953 and, since that auspicious occasion, it has received a well-deserved, international reputation.

In the entire, 416 square-mile territory, now known as the Hongkong Special Administrative Region (HKSAR) of the People’s Republic of China (PRC), no other restaurant can match Gaddi’s for the quality of its product, its elegance, grace and ambiance.

The restaurant has had its ups and downs, from time to time, but, generally, it has been a constant winner for the discerning, discriminating diner who demands the best cuisine and superior service.

Since this reviewer first came to what was, in 1961, the British Crown Colony of Hongkong, little has changed at Gaddi’s.

Except a Filipina, screaming meemie in the evenings, one who pollutes the atmosphere of this charming restaurant with unwanted sounds that completely ruin the grandeur, grace and elegant proportions that one had come to expect of Gaddi’s.

Some years ago, Gaddi’s used to engage a 3-piece (musical) trio, comprising a pianist, a violinist, a violist and, on occasions, a harpist.

The melodies, played by these accomplished musicians, used to flood through the restaurant, permeating every corner, and diners were happy just to sit and to sip their wine, listening to the music after having devoured what would have been, most certainly, one of the best meals that money could buy.

Today, however, there is, sadly, a relatively new ‘broom’ at The Peninsula, one who, clearly, could well be described as a philistine, musically speaking.

However, luckily, luncheons, served at Gaddi’s, permit the charm of yesteryear to be experienced without the screaming meemie, as sweet classical melodies are piped through the sound system as one eats a 4-course or 5-course luncheon menu.

And, by the way, the cost of a luncheon at Gaddi’s is a ‘steal’ at between $HK328 (for the ladies) and $HK428 (for the gentlemen).

TARGET (泰達財經), having booked a table for 3 people under the name of Ms C. Lee, visited Gaddi’s on Monday, January 24, 2011, and ordered the following meals:

Lunch Menu 

Salade de médaillon d’agneau cuit lentement,
célery-rave et moutarde Pommery
Slow-cooked lamb loin salad with celeriac in Pommery mustard 

Raviolo de cuisse de canette confite au foie gras et crème de thym
Duck leg confit and goose liver raviolo with thyme cream 

Filet de cabillaud d’Atlantique cuit au four au risotto aux oignons,
crème aux moules
Oven-baked Atlantic cod with spring onion risotto
and mussel-saffron cream 

Cassoulet de jarret de porc au saucisson Morteau et haricots coco
Ham hock cassoulet with Morteau sausage and white beans 

Tarte fine aux pommes et sa sauce vanillée, glace au caramel amer
Fine apple tart with vanilla cream and bitter caramel ice cream 

Assiette de fromages affinés de France
Selection of French cheeses

Including a glass of white, rosé or red wine 

$HK428

*          *          *

Ladies’ Leisure Lunch  

Coquilles St Jacques rôtis à la crème de potiron et aux noisette rôties
Roasted scallop with pumpkin cream and roasted hazelnuts 

Crème de châtaignes au céleri et pomme verte
Chestnut cream soup with celery and apple 

Quenelle de crevette géante pochée dans sa bisque à la tomate
Lightly-poached prawn mousse in its own tomato bisque
 

Dessert surprise à la façon Gaddi’s
Gaddi’s sweet taste surprise
 

Moka ou thé Peninsula
Mocha or Peninsula tea 

Including a glass of Fruit Bellini  

$HK328

As luck would have it, the newly acquired Manager of Gaddi’s had just been installed and, this charming Frenchman, added to the enjoyment of the afternoon.

Mr Pascal Desvaux, who had been in his present position for just 10 days on the afternoon of TARGET’s visit, is as fast on his feet as he is with an outburst of an occasional bon mot.

A mention, here, should be made of Janet, the relatively newly appointed hostess of Gaddi’s, who is as charming as a young Chinese lady could be: She could not do enough for TARGET’s duo although she had no idea that this restaurant was being reviewed.

Although she has been in her current position for about 10 months, one would think that her calling was that of a public relations expert.

As for the serving staff at Gaddi’s, they are, as usual, excellent; and, there was not a single dish that was not as pleasant to view as it was to be devoured in its entirety.

Some of the outstanding dishes of the luncheon, in this reviewer’s opinion, included:

Lightly poached Prawn Mousse in its own Tomato Bisque;
Oven-baked Atlantic cod with Spring Onion Risotto in a Mussel-Saffron Cream;
Ham Hock Cassoulet with Morteau Sausage and White Beans; and,
A Selection of French Cheeses

This is not to suggest that the other courses were not of the highest quality, but the above 4 courses were outstanding.

Before moving on, it was noted that the Chef of Gaddi’s, Mr David Goodridge, was on leave on the day of TARGET’s visit so that the entire luncheon was prepared by Chinese cooks – who did justice to their training under the tutelage, no doubt, of some well-educated, European master of the epicurism.

Gaddi’s seats about 80 people in absolute comfort, one’s table, not being too close to one’s neighbour so as to spoil the atmosphere with any loud banter from an uncouth patron(s).

Strangely, and this is somewhat of an anomaly to this reviewer, patrons are permitted to engage in telephone conversations on mobile communication devices in the restaurant, provided that they do not speak too loudly when receiving a telephone call.

One supposes that that rule goes along with the screaming meemie in the evenings: If this Filipina, would-be singer is encouraged to pollute the atmosphere of Gaddi’s with her screeches, then, for what reason cannot a patron scream into a mobile telephone?

Luckily, however, Gaddi’s is, still, a non-smoking food outlet.

Let us, all, hope that that does not change.