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VOLUME XI No. 186 | W E D N E S D A Y | September 30, 2009 |
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THE BEST
RESTAURANTS OF HONGKONG ...
AND THE WORST !
Name of Restaurant | Domani | |||||||||||||||||||
Address of Restaurant | Level 4, Pacific Place, Admiralty, Hongkong | |||||||||||||||||||
Date of Visit | Thursday, September 24, 2009 | |||||||||||||||||||
Category |
TARGETs Rating |
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Service | ||||||||||||||||||||
First Impression | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |||||||||||||||||
Attentiveness to Customers’ Needs | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |||||||||||||||||
Flexibility | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |||||||||||||||||
Product Expertise of Serving Staff | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |||||||||||||||||
Speed of Service | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |||||||||||||||||
Cleanliness of Uniform and Serving Staff | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |||||||||||||||||
Ambiance | ||||||||||||||||||||
Lighting | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |||||||||||||||||
Music | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |||||||||||||||||
General | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |||||||||||||||||
Food | ||||||||||||||||||||
Presentation | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |||||||||||||||||
Taste | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |||||||||||||||||
Quantity | Excellent | Acceptable | Poor | |||||||||||||||||
Wine -- | ||||||||||||||||||||
Choice | Extensive | Limited | Unbalanced | |||||||||||||||||
Cost | Reasonable | Unreasonable | Expensive | |||||||||||||||||
Storage of Wine | Good | Poor | Unknown | |||||||||||||||||
Expertise of Sommelier | Excellent | Acceptable | None | |||||||||||||||||
Total Cost of Meal | ||||||||||||||||||||
Very Expensive |
Moderately Expensive | Very Reasonably Priced | ||||||||||||||||||
Name of General Manager | Mr Giovanni Perna | |||||||||||||||||||
Name of Executive Chef | Mr Michele Bernacchia | |||||||||||||||||||
Comments | ||||||||||||||||||||
After being closed for about a fortnight in order to try to repair the leaking roof, which is only about 10 months old, Domani, the Italian-styled restaurant, located at Level 4, Pacific Place, Admiralty, reopened about 3 weeks ago. And, it is quite clear that it, still, has not got its act, completely, together. It is expensive and it is not worth the money that it is demanding for its food, in TARGET’s opinion. Considering everything, to charge $HK1,078 for a tasting menu (degustazione menu) is way over the top. That is about the same price that one would pay for a meal at the most-expensive, fine-dining restaurants in any of the 5-star hotels of the Hongkong Special Administrative Region (HKSAR) of the People’s Republic of China (PRC). One need not even ask the question as to which is the better venue, Domani or any fine-dining restaurant at any of the 5-star hotels of the HKSAR: It is obvious by a cursory glance at Domani. The food, served at Domani, is completely out of whack with the reality of the times, as are the prices, being demanded. Domani was revisited for the third time on Thursday, September 24, 2009, without a reservation, having been made, and, as luck would have it, TARGET (泰達財經) was shown to exactly the same table that this medium occupied on November 13, 2008, just 5 days after this restaurant was first opened. Everything looks, just about, the same, except, unlike the last time that this medium visited Domani, that was on March 23, 2009, there was a plethora of Chinese, Asian and some European chefs in attendance at the open kitchen. TARGET ordered the degustazione (tasting) menu and 2 a la carte dishes. The degustazione menu comprised:
Aperitivo
Combinazione
di Tagliatelle di Seppia, Pesto di Alga Nori, combination of cuttlefish tagliatella, nori seaweed pesto, fried quinoa, amberjack carpaccio, cherry tomato essence and scampi
Acqua di
Pomodoro, Capesante, Gamberi, Insalatina, tomato jelly, scallops, prawns, sprouts, salad, fruit and black salt
glass of blangé langhe arneis, ceretto, piedmont, italy 2007
Albanella di
Crostacei e Molluschi
marche style
mixed seafood chowder,
Strigoli al Nero di Seppia, Seppia,
Parmigiano e Basilico
black ink
strigoli, squid, parmesan cheese and basil
^ ^ ^
glass of
whispering angel,
Rombo, Caponata di Melanzane,
turbot, eggplant
and tomato ‘caponata’,
or
glass of chianti
classico, fontodi, tuscany, italy 2006
Filetto di Manzo
e Guanciale,
grain fed
australian beef tenderloin wrapped in ‘guanciale’ ham,
^ ^ ^
Ciocco & Cocco
hot chocolate &
frozen coconut
Caffé e Pasticceria
coffee or tea
and cuddles
Selection
without wine 980
per person
Selection
with three glasses of wine 1280 per person
+10% service
charge
(TARGET
did not taste the wines that were offered as accompaniments to
the dishes.)
The a la carte
dishes were:
Quail Breast,
Wrapped in Crispy Guanciale Ham,
Homemade
Vegetarian Passatelli,
The Dinner
A bread basket
was presented on the table, shortly after being seated, but the
bread was stale.
This could
happen at any restaurant, of course, because, after bread has
been warmed in the microwave or under a warming light for a
period of time, it tends to dry out.
But this matter
was a little consequence and was fluffed off as having been
unfortunate.
The Quail Breast
of the a la carte menu was served first and, it was, really,
very good.
At this point in
the meal, it appeared that there had been a radical change in
the quality and presentation of the food, served at this
restaurant.
The quail was a
little heavy on the cheese, but that is the way that the cook
likes it, one supposes, so one cannot criticise that aspect of
the dish.
Everything about
this dish suggested that a great deal of thought had gone into
its creation and preparation.
It was the one
outstanding dish of the entire meal, as it turned out.
Next came the
Homemade Vegetarian Passatelli from the a la carte menu, which
coincided with the arrival of the fourth course of the
degustazione menu – black ink strigoli,
squid, parmesan cheese and basil.
This was fortunate because it
permitted this medium to compare the 2 pasta dishes, side by
side.
There was, absolutely, nothing
wrong with the Homemade Vegetarian Passatelli,
but, at the same time, there was little to recommend it.
The Homemade
Vegetarian Passatelli and the black ink strigoli looked very
much alike except, of course, one was black and one was a pale
cream colour.
The Homemade
Vegetarian Passatelli, at $HK160 a pop, was very
expensive, all things considered.
As for the fourth course of the
degustazione menu, it, like the Homemade
Vegetarian Passatelli, was quite edible, but, once the
dish had been cleared away, one had, completely, forgotten about
it.
Moving back a little to the seafood
chowder in a traditional glass jar, this was, exactly, the same
dish that was served when Domani first opened its doors on
November 8, 2008.
The meat dish of the degustazione
menu, the Australian beef, it was here that the penny dropped –
because this dish was a complete disaster.
The beef was without any flavour,
at all and, to top it off, the texture of the meat was powdery.
The reason for this was that, as
any decent cook will tell you, when the meat is likely to be
tough, use baking soda as an instant tenderiser.
For the end cut of a tenderloin,
which is, more than likely, to be among the toughest part of the
curve of the ribs at the backbone, using baking soda and, then,
having the meat, heavily permeated with a strong-tasting sauce,
tends to camouflage the actions of the kitchen.
Unfortunately for Domani, TARGET
knows this trick, too.
The dish was sent packing with the
statement: ‘I just wanted to try Australian beef again – and,
now, I know that I do not like it.’
Australian beef can never be
compared with Kansas (USA) beef, of course, but Australian beef,
loaded with baking soda, compares with nothing; and, no matter
what a kitchen may try to do to cover up its ‘felony’, it
is, still, just muck.
There is no reason to make mention
of the dessert – anyway, Italians are known for their desserts –
but it was interesting that TARGET was not offered tea or
coffee, which was, supposed to be part of the degustazione menu.
Probably, in view of the fact that
this medium was only tasting the food and not, really, digging
in, so to speak, the word must have spread – and Management was
only too glad to see TARGET’s duo leave the premises.
All in all, the restaurant is,
still, very much a failure no matter how much money is spent on
Public Relations handouts, write-ups, and all the houp-la in the
world.
The Restaurant
For the most part, the serving team
at Domani is new.
However, still many, if not most,
of the serving staff have not been trained to tell guests about
the dishes in full.
It is likely, of course, that the
new Restaurant Manager, Mr Giovanni Perna, was in a hurry to get
cracking with the newly repaired roof and to reopen Domani as
quickly as possible in order to bring in the shekels since time,
as we all know, is money.
On the day of TARGET’s
visit, this medium counted about 70 guests, many of whom were
staying at the hotels in the immediate vicinity of the
restaurant.
The presentation of most of the
dishes was good, the quantity of the dishes was adequate, but
the taste, as already stated, left a lot to be desired.
When Domani first opened its doors,
the modus operandi was similar to that which TARGET
observed, last Thursday.
With Europeans, teaching some
Chinese and Asian apprentice cooks, the only question is: How
long will the experienced Europeans stay in the open kitchen?
Once the European cooks leave, the
quality of the food will deteriorate, even further.
As it is, the food is not that
great today, anyway.
The purpose-built, free-standing
restaurant, which houses Domani, today, was constructed by the
Swire Group of Companies and the building remains Swire’s
property.
The restaurant, itself, is managed
by DIR Company Ltd, whose office is located at IUKI Tower in
Wanchai.
DIR Company Ltd is owned by:
Since the opening of Domani, it has
been a loss-maker and, in terms of the Swire Group of Companies,
it must be more than a bit of an embarrassment since The Swire
Group of Companies, no doubt, had hoped for a money-spinner not
a money loser.
The building must have cost tens of
millions of dollars to plan and to construct and the return on
the investment must have been zilch, up to today – 10 months
from the opening of Domani.
The way that things stand, there is
unlikely, ever, to be a return on this investment. |
While
TARGET makes every attempt to ensure accuracy of all data published,
TARGET cannot be held responsible for any errors and/or omissions.
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