|VOLUME VIII No. 212||W E D N E S D A Y||November 8, 2006|
RESTAURANTS OF HONGKONG ...
AND THE WORST !
|Name of Restaurant||Restaurant Petrus, Island Shangri-La Hongkong|
|Address of Restaurant||Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Central, Hongkong|
|Date of Visit||Monday, November 6, 2006|
|Attentiveness to Customers’ Needs||Excellent||Acceptable||Poor|
|Product Expertise of Serving Staff||Excellent||Acceptable||Poor|
|Speed of Service||Excellent||Acceptable||Poor|
|Cleanliness of Uniform and Serving Staff||Excellent||Acceptable||Poor|
|Smoking and Non-Smoking Areas||Smoking||Non-Smoking|
|Storage of Wine||Good||Poor|
|Expertise of Sommelier||Excellent||Acceptable||Poor|
|Total Cost of Meal|
|Very Expensive||Moderately Expensive||Very Reasonable Priced|
|Name of Director of Food and Beverage||Mr Robert Hauck|
|Name of Executive Chef||Mr Roland Tirel|
From the 56th floor of Island Shangri-La, one of the best, 5-star hotels of the Hongkong Special Administrative Region (HKSAR) of the People’s Republic of China (PRC), the view is breathtaking.
But the food in this fine-dining outlet does not live up to the outstanding views of Victoria Harbour.
This was not, always, the case. But it is the case, today – sadly.
The November Dom Perignon Promotion of 4 courses at the cost of $HK1,980 plus a 10-percent Service Charge is, what the Americans might describe as, a type of ‘rip-off’.
This was the menu:
Hokkaido Bay Scallop Tartar and Oscietra Caviar,
Grilled Duck Foie Fras
Roasted Squab Breast Dolce-Forte
The first course – Hokkaido Bay Scallop Tartar and Oscietra Caviar, Chilled Lobster Broth with Saffron – was almost insipid.
This reviewer had no idea what it was supposed to be until the menu was scanned, once again.
As for the second course – Grilled Duck Foie Gras, etc – it turned out to be a reasonable slice of duck liver, lying in a virtual pool of fat/oil (whatever it was).
It was terrible!
The third course – Roasted Squab Breast dolce-forte, etc – was the best course of the small menu and was just about cooked to perfection.
If one is a lover of squab, this dish will appeal.
However, throughout the entire meal, one is served no vegetables of any note and no starch (other than bread): The meal was, completely, unbalanced, devoid as it was of a little green salad … or something.
As for the desert, it was too sweet to describe and this reviewer tasted it, dutifully, and, then, left the beautifully appointed outlet of this otherwise lovely hotel.
As for the vegetarian menu, it was fine, and those people with a penchant for raw vegetables will enjoy this meal.
This was the menu:
Coco Bean Soup, Pecorino Cheese,
Fresh Garden Greens and Shaved Vegetables,
Green Asparagus Custard Served with Asparagus Shavings
Slow Cooked Vegetables,
Risotto of Young Provence Zucchini, Zucchini Flower and
Warm Summer Vegetables on a Vegetable Jelly,
The best thing about the dishes on this menu was that there appeared to be no hint of monosodium glutamate (MSG) and the flavours of the various vegetables were permitted to be dominant.
In Chinese cooking, very often, embellishments are considered standard in quite a number of vegetarian dishes, especially in Buddhist restaurants.
Cooking vegetables, only, requires little technique, by and large, and one does not need a French chef of the supposed calibre of Mr Frederic Chabbert, Restaurant Petrus Chef, to oversee the preparation of a small salad in a light dressing.
The best dish in this 7-course meal was the risotto which employed Italian rice, cooked al dente.
Other than this one dish, one could describe the meal as passable, but little else.
The service at this outlet has, always, been superior; it, still, is superior.
The prices, being charged at Restaurant Petrus, are outrageously high, considering the fare.
There are much-better, fine-dining establishments in the HKSAR than this one, to be sure.
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