VOLUME  VIII  No. 212 W E D N E S D A Y November 8,  2006


Dining and Wining ...
Where To Go ...
Where Not To Go







Name of Restaurant Restaurant Petrus, Island Shangri-La Hongkong
Address of Restaurant Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Central, Hongkong
Date of Visit Monday, November 6, 2006  
Category TARGET’s Rating
    Service Excellent Acceptable Poor
    First Impression Excellent Acceptable Poor
    Attentiveness to Customers’ Needs Excellent Acceptable Poor
    Flexibility Excellent Acceptable Poor
    Product Expertise of Serving Staff Excellent Acceptable Poor
    Speed of Service Excellent Acceptable Poor
    Cleanliness of Uniform and Serving Staff Excellent Acceptable Poor
Smoking and Non-Smoking Areas Smoking                       Non-Smoking
          Lighting Excellent Acceptable Poor
          Music Excellent Acceptable Poor
          General Excellent Acceptable Poor
          Presentation Excellent Acceptable Poor
          Taste Excellent Acceptable Poor
          Quantity Excellent Acceptable Poor
          Choice Extensive Limited Unbalanced
          Cost Reasonable Unreasonable  
          Storage of Wine Good Poor  
          Expertise of Sommelier Excellent Acceptable Poor
Total Cost of Meal    
          Very Expensive Moderately Expensive Very Reasonable Priced
Name of Director of Food and Beverage        Mr Robert Hauck  
Name of Executive Chef        Mr Roland Tirel  

The best thing about Restaurant Petrus, today, is the view. 

From the 56th floor of Island Shangri-La, one of the best, 5-star hotels of the Hongkong Special Administrative Region (HKSAR) of the People’s Republic of China (PRC), the view is breathtaking. 

But the food in this fine-dining outlet does not live up to the outstanding views of Victoria Harbour. 

This was not, always, the case. But it is the case, today – sadly. 

The November Dom Perignon Promotion of 4 courses at the cost of $HK1,980 plus a 10-percent Service Charge is, what the Americans might describe as, a type of ‘rip-off’

This was the menu:  

Hokkaido Bay Scallop Tartar and Oscietra Caviar,
Chilled Lobster Broth with Saffron 

Grilled Duck Foie Fras
Soft Slices of Quince, Capers and Port Reduction Sauce 

Roasted Squab Breast Dolce-Forte
Glazed Beetroot and Baby Turnips, Spiced Griotte Cherry

The first course – Hokkaido Bay Scallop Tartar and Oscietra Caviar, Chilled Lobster Broth with Saffron – was almost insipid. 

This reviewer had no idea what it was supposed to be until the menu was scanned, once again. 

As for the second course – Grilled Duck Foie Gras, etc – it turned out to be a reasonable slice of duck liver, lying in a virtual pool of fat/oil (whatever it was). 

It was terrible! 

The third course – Roasted Squab Breast dolce-forte, etc – was the best course of the small menu and was just about cooked to perfection. 

If one is a lover of squab, this dish will appeal. 

However, throughout the entire meal, one is served no vegetables of any note and no starch (other than bread): The meal was, completely, unbalanced, devoid as it was of a little green salad … or something. 

As for the desert, it was too sweet to describe and this reviewer tasted it, dutifully, and, then, left the beautifully appointed outlet of this otherwise lovely hotel. 

As for the vegetarian menu, it was fine, and those people with a penchant for raw vegetables will enjoy this meal. 

This was the menu: 

Coco Bean Soup, Pecorino Cheese,
Sage and Rosemary Ravioli 

Fresh Garden Greens and Shaved Vegetables,
Extra Virgin Olive Oil Lemon Vinaigrette 

Green Asparagus Custard Served with Asparagus Shavings 

Slow Cooked Vegetables,
Summer Truffle Bouillon and Crispy Socca 

Risotto of Young Provence Zucchini, Zucchini Flower and
Genoise Sauce with Basil 

Warm Summer Vegetables on a Vegetable Jelly,
Romaine Lettuce and Black Olives Sauce 

The best thing about the dishes on this menu was that there appeared to be no hint of monosodium glutamate (MSG) and the flavours of the various vegetables were permitted to be dominant. 

In Chinese cooking, very often, embellishments are considered standard in quite a number of vegetarian dishes, especially in Buddhist restaurants. 

Cooking vegetables, only, requires little technique, by and large, and one does not need a  French chef of the supposed calibre of Mr Frederic Chabbert, Restaurant Petrus Chef, to oversee the preparation of a small salad in a light dressing. 

The best dish in this 7-course meal was the risotto which employed Italian rice, cooked al dente. 

Other than this one dish, one could describe the meal as passable, but little else. 

The service at this outlet has, always, been superior; it, still, is superior.  

The prices, being charged at Restaurant Petrus, are outrageously high, considering the fare. 

There are much-better, fine-dining establishments in the HKSAR than this one, to be sure.





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